THE COFFEE SERVICE
In Ottoman palaces and mansions, the service of coffee involved a ceremony that was
prescribed in detail by custom. Before the coffee, guests would be offered a confection
(usually a jam). This was presented on a silver tray bearing a covered bowl in the center,
surrounded by goblets holding spoons and cups of water to be drunk after taking the sweet.
After being passed around to the guests, the coffee would be served by three young girls.
To prevent the coffee from becoming cold, the jug containing it would be set on a brazier
containing warm coals that was carried suspended from three chains attached to it. These
coffee-braziers and jugs were made from tombak, silver, or brass. Also used in the service
was a round coverlet made from satin or velvet and usually decorated with braid, silver
thread and sequins; more opulent ones might also be embellished with pearls or brilliants.
The coverlet was decorated with a large central roundel from which floral patterns
radiated and it was trimmed or fringed about with silver thread. The elegance of the
service was an indication of the family's affluence.
This coverlet was held in front of her like an apron by the girl carrying the tray with the coffeecups. A second girl carried the coffee-brazier and jug while the third picked up the porcelain cups one by one from the tray, filled it with coffee from the jug, and set the cup in a holder (made of gold, tombak, Silver, or porcelain). Grasping the stem of the holder between her thumb and forefinger, she would then serve the coffee to each of the guests in turn. Coffee was frequently accompanied by tobacco, which would be smoked in a nargileh or long-stemmed chibouk.
